Cartier Watches
Browse a curated collection of certified used Cartier watches, including the Tank, Santos, Panthère, and Ballon Bleu. Every pre-owned Cartier is inspected for authenticity, condition, and performance, with transparent pricing and immediate availability. Our expert team carefully inspects all of our pre-owned Cartier watches to ensure its authenticity and quality, providing you with a seamless buying experience.
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History of Cartier
Cartier watches were born from jewelry, not horseracing or aviation. Louis-François Cartier founded the company in Paris in 1847 as a jewelry atelier. It was his grandson, Louis Cartier, who turned the company into a watchmaking powerhouse by creating the Santos Dumont in 1904, arguably the first modern wristwatch. The watch was made for Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, so he could keep his hands free while piloting. This practical creation revolutionized the way the world thought about telling time.
The brand soon became the purveyor to royalty and the cultural elite. In 1908, the Russian Tsar Nicholas II commissioned Cartier to make a pair of pearl necklaces from Fabergé for his wife. In 1911, King Edward VII referred to Cartier as “the jeweler of kings and the king of jewelers.” The company’s “S” hallmark, used from 1905 onward, became synonymous with the highest quality.
Over the years, Cartier has created some of the most culturally resonant watch designs ever made — the Tank (1917), the Crash (1967), the Pasha (1985), and the Ballon Bleu (2007). Today it’s part of the Richemont group and operates one of the largest haute horlogerie manufacture networks.
Cartier Collections
Tank
The Cartier Tank (1917) is the single most important rectangular watch ever designed. Its silhouette was inspired by the overhead view of a WWI Renault FT-17 tank. The brancards (the vertical side bars) are the “treads” and the case is the “hull.” No single watch design has been referenced more often. The Tank Louis Cartier (LC) is the purest expression with Roman numerals, chemin de fer minutes, and long blued-steel sword hands. Variants include the Tank Française, Tank Américaine, and Tank Solo.
Perhaps no other watch can claim as many famous wrists: Jackie Kennedy, Princess Diana, Andy Warhol, Yves Saint Laurent, Michelle Obama, Angelina Jolie. It is the unofficial watch of the intellectual-artistic elite.
Santos
The Santos (1904) was the first pilot’s wristwatch ever made. Square with rounded corners, an exposed screw bezel (eight screws), and an integrated bracelet — these details were revolutionary in 1904. The modern Santos rocks a quick-swap bracelet system with SmartLink size adjustment. The Santos Dumont is the dressier cousin — manual-wind, more slender, less sporty. The regular Santos is the modern sports watch version.
Ballon Bleu
The Ballon Bleu (2007) is Cartier’s most commercially successful modern watch. The case is round with a distinctive “bubble” effect — sapphire cabochon crown surrounded by a protective arch, Roman numerals, guilloché dial. Available in 28mm to 46mm with quartz or automatic movements. Among the best-selling luxury watches in the world.
Pasha
The Pasha (1930s for the Pasha of Marrakech, relaunched 1985) features a round case with a distinctive screw-down crown cap connected by a small chain to the case. Water resistance was better than most square or rectangular Cartiers, making it the brand’s “tool” watch before the Santos got updated.
Panthère
Introduced in the 1980s, the Panthère de Cartier is an integrated bracelet watch with feminine styling — sometimes rectangular, sometimes square with softened corners. After being discontinued, it was re-introduced in 2017 with stainless steel and two-tone options. One of Cartier’s most iconic jewelry-watch models.
Crash
The Cartier Crash (1967 London) is one of the most collectible and unusual watch designs ever produced. Its asymmetrical, “melted” case shape reportedly was inspired by the aftermath of a car crash. Extremely limited production. Cartier reintroduced a limited edition version in 2022 that sold for well above retail instantly. Vintage Crash models frequently break records at auction.
Drive de Cartier
A more recent cushion-shaped masculine collection (2016) from Cartier, the Drive was well received and offered in time-only, chronograph, and ultra-thin skeletonized versions.
Clé de Cartier
Another newer collection, distinguished by its crown design shaped like a key.
Calibre de Cartier
Cartier’s more modern and masculine sports watch, available with in-house movements. The Calibre de Cartier diver (2014) was one of the first Cartier divers to meet the ISO 6425 standard.
Cartier Specifications
Movements
Cartier has built an impressive in-house movement program in recent decades. The 1904 MC (automatic) and 430 MC (manual) anchor much of the catalog. The 9452 MC is a flying tourbillon. Cartier movements are finished with Côtes de Genève and perlage. Collectors also appreciate many older Cartier watches using exceptional Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) and Frédéric Piguet ébauches — some of the finest outsourced movements in watchmaking. This means that many older Cartier watches house movements actually more impressive than their modern in-house equivalents.
Materials
- Steel: 316L stainless steel
- Gold: 18k yellow, rose, white gold, and sometimes palladium (Pasha)
- Platinum: High-end Tank LC models
- Two-Tone: Steel and gold on Santos, Tank, Ballon Bleu, Panthère
- Titanium: Select Santos-Dumont and limited editions
- ADLC: Amorphous Diamond-Like Carbon coating on some Santos models
- Alligator: Preferred strap material across the entire line
Crown
Cartier’s cabochon sapphire crown is one of the most famous design signatures in watchmaking. Nearly every Cartier crown features a faceted or polished sapphire — blue for steel case, red for pink gold, black/onyx for yellow gold. The crown itself is often octagonal or faceted. It’s a design detail that separates Cartier from every other brand.
Dial
Roman numerals on silvered or guilloché dials with blued-steel sword-shaped hands — this is the classic Cartier dial blueprint. The chemin de fer (railway track) minute track appears on many models.
Cartier Size Guide
| Collection | Width/Sizes | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Tank Louis Cartier | 23mm x 30mm | Unisex classic |
| Tank Française (Medium) | 25mm x 31mm | Integrated bracelet |
| Santos Medium/Large | 35mm / 40mm | Most popular |
| Ballon Bleu 33/36/42 | 33mm / 36mm / 42mm | 42mm is chronograph |
| Pasha 41/35 | 35mm / 41mm | 41mm for 2020 revivals |
Cartier Price Information (Pre-Owned)
| Collection | Pre-Owned Price Range |
|---|---|
| Tank | $995 – $48,995 |
| Santos | $2,695 – $19,995 |
| Ballon Bleu | $1,595 – $28,995 |
| Pasha | $1,695 – $10,495 |
| Panthère | $1,595 – $14,995 |
| Calibre Diver | $2,595 – $3,895 |
Why Choose Bob’s Watches for Cartier
- Authenticity Guarantee: Every watch inspected by certified watchmakers
- Condition Standards: Only excellent to pristine condition stocked
- Warranty Protection: One-year warranty covering mechanical defects
- Curated Selection: Current production and discontinued references across all price points
Sell Your Cartier
Looking to upgrade? Bob’s Watches offers competitive quotes for Cartier timepieces. Secure process with payment typically within 24 hours. Visit our Sell Cartier page.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do Cartier watches hold value?
Selectively. Vintage Tank models with JLC movements and Crash models appreciate. Pre-owned Cartier from modern production depreciates typical 30–50%, though Ballon Bleu and Santos hold relatively well compared to most non-Rolex brands.
What is the difference between Tank, Santos, and Ballon Bleu?
Flat rectangle (Tank), square with screws (Santos), round with cabochon crown (Ballon Bleu). Tank is dress, Santos is sport-luxe, Ballon Bleu is modern classic everyday.
Are Cartier watches good investments?
Some vintage models and limited editions have appreciated tremendously (especially the Crash and vintage Tanks), but most modern Cartier watches are not purchased as investments — they are purchased for their design.
Are Cartier watches Swiss made?
Yes. Cartier produces its watches in Switzerland (primarily La Chaux-de-Fonds and Geneva). Some movements are manufactured at the Richemont-owned movement facility in Villeret.